By Rick A. Martínez, The New York Times
A freshly ground masa tortilla, as it cooks on a comal, inflates as the steam inside pushes apart the sides and releases an intoxicating toasted corn aroma. It actually tastes like nutty, earthy corn, with a soft, chewy texture and almost custardy center. And its role is not just to transport a taco filling and salsas from your plate to your mouth, but to complement and ground the bright, acidic and spicy flavors with something rich and soothing, familiar and homey.
Chef Fermín Núñez of Suerte, in Austin, Texas, considers masa “the canvas of what Mexican cooking is all about.”
“Without masa,” he said, “there’s no tortillas, and, without tortillas, there’s no tacos!”
When it opened in 2018, Suerte was one of the few restaurants in the country making masa from heirloom varieties of corn and using it to make tortillas, tlacoyos, tlayudas, tamales and taquitos.
“I wanted to create a restaurant that was obsessed with creating the best masa from corn that was grown in Texas,” he said, adding he hoped to make “a tortilla that was unique to us but reminded you of the best ones you’ve had in Mexico.”
In the United States, we primarily eat processed, preservative-filled corn tortillas, whose flavor ranges from bland to sour and musty. But that’s not how it is supposed to be. And that’s not how it is for many people living in Mexico, who have access to handmade tortillas from freshly ground corn masa, and for whom masa is the cornerstone of the cuisine.
Nixtamalization, the art of turning corn into masa, is an ancient practice in Mesoamerica, documented as far back as 1500 B.C. To do it, one simply simmers dried corn in water and cal, or calcium hydroxide, until the kernels soften. They’re then ground into a homogeneous dough that holds whatever shape you choose to give it: thin circles for tortillas, thicker ones for gorditas and sopes, plump ovals for huaraches and triangles for black-bean stuffed tetelas. This process increased the availability of nutrients in the corn, such as vitamin B3, calcium and iron, helping to sustain the civilizations that built great ancient cities like Teotihuacán, Tenochtitlán and Chichén-Itzá — and grew at least in part because of an energy-rich diet.
Today, corn — and masa — are still a bedrock, found in beverages like atole and the chocolate-corn drink champurrado. Masa can be crumbled into sauces and stews like mole and uliche to add body, flavor and richness. It can be shaped into dimpled balls and simmered in soups and stews to make dumplings called chochoyotes. In these dishes, the flavor of the corn receives all of the limelight. They’re also great ways to showcase heirloom colors and varieties, of which there are many.
In the west-central state of Nayarit, corn stalks tower above the verdant valleys, while some varieties in the central state of Tlaxcala shimmer like red rubies in the late summer sun. Each of these varieties has a distinct color and flavor, and companies like Masienda are making some available as whole, unprocessed corn as well as ground masa harina (corn flour for tortillas) and ship across the United States.
To buy fresh masa, seek out tortilla and totopo makers near you. They most likely nixtamalize their own corn daily to make their corn products, so you know it will be fresh. And chances are good they’ll sell you a pound or two.
There is no reason to settle for those stale packaged tortillas when you can be eating the colors and flavors of Mexico. Using good, fresh masa will make those weekly taco nights more vibrantly colorful, beautifully delicious and, most important, more soulfully Mexican.
Tortillas de Maíz
Any reservations you might have had about making corn tortillas from scratch will disappear the moment you taste them: warm, soft and chewy, they actually taste like corn. Freshly made masa purchased from a Mexican market or tortilleria will give you the most soulful flavor and texture, but masa harina is a close second that turns out tortillas that are still miles ahead of packaged ones. When mixed with water and salt, masa presses easily into rounds if it’s properly hydrated according to the tips below. A staple of the Mexican table, homemade tortillas are served with most meals the way bread is in other countries. And while outside Mexico, tacos may be their most well-known use, they can be toasted to make tostadas; stuffed, rolled and fried to make taquitos or flautas; or bathed in a chile, bean, tomato or mole sauce to make enchiladas, enfrijoladas, entomatadas and enmoladas.
By Rick A. Martínez
Yield: 9 tortillas
Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 pound/453 grams fresh fine-grind corn masa for tortillas (about 1 3/4 cups) or 2 cups/260 grams masa harina (see Tip)
- Fine sea salt
Preparation
1. Set out a 1-gallon zip-top freezer bag, a plastic produce bag (or plastic wrap) and a tortilla press (or a smooth-bottomed 10-inch skillet or glass pie plate).
2. If using fresh masa, knead the masa, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons water with your hands in a large bowl until the mixture is soft and pliable but doesn’t stick to your hands.
3. If using masa harina, mix 2 cups masa harina, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 1/3 cups water with your hands in a large bowl until the mixture is soft and pliable but doesn’t stick to your hands.
4. Test the masa mixture: Scoop 1/4 cup masa mixture, roll into a ball and pat into 1/2-inch-thick patty. The edges of the patty should be completely smooth; this is the sign that the masa is properly hydrated. If the edges are cracked and craggy and the mixture is too dry or crumbly, the masa mixture needs more water. Return the patty to the bowl, add a tablespoon or two more water, one at a time, and mix to incorporate. When fully hydrated, knead for 3 minutes, cover the bowl with a damp clean towel and let sit for 20 minutes.
5. Cut an 8-inch square of plastic from a zip-top bag and from a produce bag. (The masa will be easier to remove from the plastic if you use two pieces of differing thicknesses.) Divide the dough into 9 equal portions (about the size of pingpong balls) and roll into balls. Place on a sheet pan and keep covered with a damp kitchen towel while you press and cook the tortillas.
6. Heat a comal, medium nonstick skillet, well-seasoned cast-iron skillet or a griddle over medium-high. Place the thicker plastic square on the bottom of the press. Working with one dough ball at a time, open the press and place one ball in the center of plastic and top with the thinner plastic. Gently press, holding steady, firm pressure for a few seconds, to flatten the dough to a 6 1/2-inch round. Open the press and remove the top plastic. Place the dough on your open palm so it is thicker plastic-side up, and peel off the plastic. (Alternatively, you can flatten the tortillas with a smooth-bottomed 10-inch skillet or glass pie plate. Place thicker plastic on a clean work surface and top with a masa ball and the thinner plastic and press down with the skillet or pie plate.)
7. Cook the tortillas one at a time (unless you’re using a large griddle), flipping every 30 seconds, until it just starts to brown in spots, about 90 seconds total. (If the tortillas are getting too dark in spots, lower the heat.) Stack and wrap the cooked tortillas in a clean kitchen towel to keep them warm. Repeat with the remaining dough balls and serve warm.
Tips: You can use any color fresh masa or masa harina. You can buy fresh fine-grind masa harina for making tortillas at tortillerias or Mexican markets. Masa harina, such as Bob’s Red Mill Masa Harina, is available online and in most supermarkets.
The tortillas can be made 3 days ahead. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Reheat in a medium cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until heated through, about 60 seconds per side.
Gorditas de Maíz
Gorditas are thicker and heartier than their flat tortilla cousins and are even easier to make. They don’t require a tortilla press and can be shaped simply by patting masa dough flat. Once cooked, they are often split in the center like a pita and filled with stewed meats and vegetables. Their extra thickness helps to absorb guisos, braises, and to hold their structure and shape when they are stuffed with saucier fillings like pork pulled off the bone from encacahuatado de costillas de cerdo. Gorditas also can be served uncut and used like a thick tortilla for swiping through mole negro.
By Rick A. Martínez
Yield: 8 gorditas
Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 3/4 pounds/794 grams fresh fine-grind corn masa for tortillas (about 3 1/4 cups) or 380 grams/2 2/3 cups/380 grams masa harina (see Tip)
- Fine sea salt
Preparation
1. If using fresh masa, knead the masa, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons water with your hands in a large bowl until the mixture is soft and pliable but doesn’t stick to your hands.
2. If using masa harina, mix masa harina, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 2 cups water with your hands in a large bowl until the mixture is soft and pliable but doesn’t stick to your hands.
3. Scoop 1/4 cup of masa, roll into a ball, pat into a 1/2-inch thick patty. If the edges are cracked and craggy, the masa needs more water. The edges of the patty should be completely smooth; this is the sign that the masa is properly hydrated. If it’s still too dry or crumbly, add a tablespoon or two more water, one at a time, and mix to incorporate. When fully hydrated, knead for 3 minutes, cover the bowl with a damp clean towel and let sit for 20 minutes.
4. Divide the dough into 8 portions and roll into balls. Arrange on a sheet pan and keep covered with a damp kitchen towel while you shape and cook the gorditas. Working with one ball at a time, use your hands to flatten into a patty about 1/4-inch thick and 5 inches in diameter. If you have trouble working with the dough in your hands, you can cut an 8-inch square of plastic from a 1-gallon zip-top freezer bag, put the ball in the center and use one hand to pat it out, turning the plastic as you pat. Peel off the plastic just before cooking.
5. Heat a comal, medium nonstick skillet, well-seasoned cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. Cook the gorditas, one at a time (unless you’re using a large griddle), until browned in spots, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining gorditas.
6. If planning to fill the gordita, insert a sharp paring knife into the edge of the warm gordita. Cut a pocket into the gordita leaving it intact on the other side to prevent the filling from leaking out. Repeat with the remaining gorditas. Serve the gorditas warm, stuffed with the filling of your choice or uncut, like a thick tortilla.
Tips: You can use any color fresh masa or masa harina. You can buy fresh fine-grind masa harina for making tortillas at tortillerias or Mexican markets. Masa harina, such as Bob’s Red Mill Masa Harina, is available online and in most supermarkets.
The gorditas can be made 3 days ahead. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Reheat in a medium cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until heated through, about 60 seconds per side.
Tetelas de Frijol Negro (Black Bean Masa Dumplings)
Tetelas, triangle-shaped dumplings, are wrapped with a thin disk of masa and usually filled with a rich and spicy black bean purée. With roots in Mesoamerica, tetelas are thought to have originated in the pre-Aztec culture of the Mixtec people. They lived in the current Mexican states of Oaxaca and parts of nearby Puebla, where tetelas remain popular today. In this version, avocado leaves perfume the beans with hints of citrus and anise, but if you don’t have them, you can use a combination of parsley and tarragon instead. Tetelas can be served alongside a meal like hearty dinner rolls or as a side dish, topped with shredded lettuce or cabbage, salsa, crema, chopped cilantro and onion and a sprinkle of queso Cotija.
By Rick A. Martínez
Yield: 9 tetelas
Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 pound/453 grams fresh fine-grind corn masa for tortillas (about 1 3/4 cups) or 2 cups/260 grams masa harina (see Tips)
- Fine sea salt
- 3 tablespoons rendered lard (preferably not hydrogenated)
- 1/4 medium white onion, sliced
- 1 garlic clove, sliced
- 1 to 2 chiles de árbol, stemmed (1 for mild or 2 for spicy) or 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
- 2 fresh or dried avocado leaves, woody stem removed, or 1 sprig parsley and 1 sprig tarragon
- 1 (15-ounce) can black beans and their liquid (or 2 cups homemade Frijoles de Olla and 1/3 cup of their liquid)
- Crema, crumbled queso fresco and salsa, for serving
Preparation
1. Set out a blender; a 1-gallon zip-top freezer bag; a plastic produce bag or plastic wrap; and a tortilla press, smooth-bottomed 10-inch skillet or a glass pie plate.
2. If using fresh masa, knead the fresh masa, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons water with your hands in a large bowl until the mixture is soft and pliable but doesn’t stick to your hands. If using masa harina, mix the masa harina, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 1/3 cups water with your hands in a large bowl until the mixture is soft and pliable but doesn’t stick to your hands.
3. Scoop 1/4 cup of masa, roll into a ball and pat into a 1/2-inch thick patty. If the edges are cracked and craggy, the masa needs more water. The edges of the patty should be completely smooth; this is the sign that the masa is properly hydrated. If it’s still too dry or crumbly, add a tablespoon or two more water, one at a time, and mix to incorporate. When fully hydrated, knead for 3 minutes, cover the bowl with a damp clean towel and let sit for 20 minutes.
4. To make the filling, heat 2 tablespoons of lard in a heavy medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high and cook the onion, garlic, chiles and avocado leaves, stirring occasionally, until tender and brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the onion mixture to a blender, leaving as much lard in the skillet as possible. Add the beans and their liquid and purée until smooth.
6. To the skillet with the reserved lard, add the remaining 1 tablespoon lard and heat over high until just beginning to smoke, about 1 minute. Carefully and quickly add the bean purée to the hot oil; the mixture will spit and sputter but then rapidly settle down. Cook, stirring frequently to avoid scorching, until the mixture is very thick and is the consistency of pudding, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, taste and season with salt if necessary. Let cool; the beans will thicken as they sit.
7. Cut an 8-inch square of plastic from a zip top bag and from a produce bag. (The masa will be easier to remove from the plastic if you use two pieces of differing thicknesses.) Divide the dough into 9 pingpong ball-sized portions and roll into balls. Arrange on a sheet pan and keep covered with a damp kitchen towel while you press and cook the tetelas.
8. Heat a comal, medium nonstick skillet, well-seasoned cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-heat. Place the thicker plastic square on the bottom of the press. Working with one dough ball at a time, open the press and place one ball in the center and top with the thinner plastic. Gently press, holding steady firm pressure for a few seconds to flatten the dough to a 6 1/2-inch round. Open the press and remove the top plastic. (Alternatively, you can place the thicker plastic on a clean work surface and top with a masa ball and the thinner plastic and press down with a smooth-bottomed large skillet or pie plate.)
9. To make each tetela, place 1 tablespoon bean paste in the center of a masa round and gently spread into a 3-inch circle. Using the plastic to help you, fold over one side of the masa round towards the center and gently press into the bean paste. Peel the plastic back from the folded section. Fold a second section over at a 45-degree angle. Press into the bean paste in the center of the masa round and peel the plastic back. You should have a triangle-shaped top and a rounded bottom. Fold the bottom into the center making a triangle with no beans showing. Peel the plastic back and pat the masa at the seams to seal.
10. Cook the tetelas, two at a time, until deep brown in spots on both sides and slightly puffed, about 2 minutes per side. Place on a plate and cover with a clean kitchen towel to keep them warm. Repeat with the remaining dough balls and bean paste. Serve warm with a drizzle of crema, a sprinkle of queso fresco and salsa on the side.
Tips: You can use any color fresh masa or masa harina. You can buy fresh fine-grind masa harina for making tortillas at tortillerias or Mexican markets. Masa harina, such as Bob’s Red Mill Masa Harina, is available online and in most supermarkets.
The tetelas can be made 2 days ahead. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Reheat in a medium cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until heated through, for about 60 seconds per side.
Frijoles de Olla (Homestyle Black Beans)
This beloved dish often starts with unsoaked dried beans, which are traditionally cooked in an olla, earthenware pot, or other types of clay pots, such as a cazuela de barro. Any pot works and the seasonings are generally simple — usually onion, garlic, herbs and sometimes lard or pork — but the resulting flavor is rich and complex. A staple throughout Mexico, this dish varies from region to region in the types of beans used and include pinto beans, black beans and Mayocoba beans. Eaten as is as a side or a main dish, frijoles de olla also can be puréed, smashed or refried and used as a sauce or a filling for dishes like tetelas.
By Rick A. Martínez
Yield: 3 quarts
Total time: 2 hours 35 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 pound/453 grams dried black beans, rinsed and picked through
- 1/4 medium white onion, chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 2 dried or fresh avocado or bay leaves
- 3 fresh epazote sprigs or a combination of parsley, oregano and mint sprigs
- Fine sea salt
Preparation
1. In a large pot, combine the beans, onion, garlic, avocado leaves, epazote, 4 teaspoons salt and 16 cups of water. Bring to a boil over high. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook at a slow simmer, uncovered, skimming and stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. Check the beans every hour to see if they need more water; the beans should always be covered by water. The cooking time will depend on how old the beans are; freshly dried beans can fully cook in 1 1/2 hours.
2. Remove and discard the herbs. Taste and season the beans with more salt if desired. The beans and their cooking liquid can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Or, make them up to 3 months ahead and freeze in an airtight container.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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